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Short Man
Cut and style
A classic single-breasted three-button style is certainly best for a
short man. The cut must be classic. This means the jacket should
not be high buttoned. The length of the jacket must also be in proportion
to the height of the wearer.
The trousers should be single
pleated and tapered rather than parallel. Plain bottoms will give length
and a balanced line to the whole look.
Suitings
Prominent tweeds and large checks should be avoided at all costs.
Keep to a plain or self-patterned fabric.
Colour
These should be in harmony with complexion and hair colour.
Avoid
Never buy a regular fitting jacket and have the sleeves shortened.
This always means the length of the jacket is too long and exaggerate
the shortness. At all times buy a short fitting.
Many men opt for a two-button style. This only emphasises
their shortness; whereas the classic three-button style will give them
length and balance.
Average Man
Cut and style
Almost any cut and style will look well on a man of average height.
Clarke & Dawe always suggest a Saville Row or City style that
emphasises detail. This has a three-button, close cut, jacket which
is slightly waisted with slanted flap pockets, outer ticket pocket
and long, rear single-vent. Cuffs must always be functional or working
(the cuff buttons can be unbuttoned). A gentleman with a suit never
uses a belt. Braces or a self support strap and buckle are de
rigeur.
Suitings
A pinstripe, chalk stripe or plain worsted wool in navy or charcoal
looks superb in this style.
Colour
These should be in harmony with complexion and hair colour.
Avoid
Buying high fashion suits, such as those with high buttons and double
pleats. This can happen when a gentleman has a wide choice but little
direction or advice.
Tall Man
Cut and style
The double-breasted, which has two buttonholes and shows three buttons
gives poise and elegance. The jacket should be slightly waisted
with two long side vents.
Suitings
Tall men can carry most patterns. Pinstripe or chalk stripe always look
outstanding on a double-breasted two-button.
Colour
These should be in harmony with his complexion and hair colour.
Avoid
Low two button suits. At all times avoid short sleeves and short trouser
length. Trouser should always be 1" from the ground at the back.
Accessorising
This is an area where many suits are killed but
choosing the wrong shirt, tie or shoes. Our advice is to keep your
choice of suit classic in both colour and style. It is much easier
to give a different look by changing your shirt and tie combination.
It is really important to choose your shirt and
tie when you purchase your suit. You may think that you have the
correct combination at home, but the colour we carry in our head
is often shades apart from reality.
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